Eating Tales

Way back in October I went and heard Ruth Rogers speak at the Cheltenham literature festival. I’ve heard and know of The River Cafe but I’ve never eaten there before, nor did I know of its history, until I went to hear Ruth speak. The story of The River Cafe is intriguing. I was particularly inspired by the fact that Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers set up the River Cafe as friends and with no formal chefs training and twenty-two years later they are still going strong and have gained an outstanding reputation. She spoke particularly on their new book The River Cafe Classic Italian Cookbook, a collection of 200 traditional and regional recipes from their extensive travels through Italy, cooking with friends, chefs and winemakers. Of course I bought the book and got it signed. Whilst signing the book Ruth said to me ‘do you like to cook?’! To which I replied ‘yes, I love to cook’ whilst my head was telling me to add ‘would I be able to come on work experience at The River Cafe?’ but I didn’t pluck up the courage!!

I got home and tried two recipes, the Italian focaccia bread, which was a total success and the Pumpkin Gnocchi, not so much of a success. The pumpkin was so wet that I ended up having to add far more flour than stated in the recipe.  The gnocchi didn’t end up tasting much more than a raw ball of dough. Extremely unappetising. In fact probably one of the worst things I’ve ever made and tasted! But I’m sure with a good pumpkin it would have been delicious.

This Christmas I received an Magimix ice cream machine, a totally brilliant invention and it does not require any freezing of bowls in advance- which is great, because our freezer does not even fit the old ice cream bowl part that I have in.  From turning the machine on it is ready to make ice cream within 5 minutes! Then, once the mixture is in the churn, it is frozen into ice cream within about 20 minutes.

The first batch of ice cream that I have made in the machine is the River Cafe Caramel ice cream found in their Classic Italian book. ( Gelato della caramello) This is apparently the most popular ice cream they make at the River Cafe. It is a bitter caramel ice cream, in fact it tastes rather similar to creme brulee.

For 10

1.75 litres double cream

450ml full-fat milk

20 large free-range eggs

350g caster sugar

For the caramel

300g caster sugar

120ml water

In a large thick-bottomed pan, gently heat the cream and milk to just boiling, then remove from the heat.

Beat the eggs with the sugar for about 5 minutes, until pale, thick and creamy in consistancy. Pour a little of the warm cream and milk micture into the eggs, stir to combine, then add this mixture to the remaining cream and milk. Return the pan to the heat and cook very gently, stirring constantly to cook the eggs but prevent them curdling. When the mixture has thickened and is almost boiling, pour it into a bowl and leave to cool.

To make the caramel, whisk the caster sugar and water in a small thick-bottomed pan over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved. Then turn up the heat slightly and boil until the sugar turns from toffee to almost black caramel- but do not let it burn. Immediately remove from the heat and add the caramel to the cooled custard (carefully, as it does spit imensely!), stirring with a whisk until everything is comnined and is a beautiful dark rich colour. Allow to cool, then pour into an ice cream machine and churn until frozen, or freeze in a container, stirring occasionally to break up the ice crystals as it freezes.

I thought I would post the recipes for various quick and easy meals I’ve been cooking whilst unpacking boxes, painting and filling holes in walls etc. I have to admit that it still looks like we moved in yesterday and when people call by they look amongst the boxes and say ‘ Oh it’s looking great!’. Filly our dog has just added to the list of chores by attacking the door frame to the utility room in an attempt to escape. It looks like a job for a carpenter. Her other antics have included climbing on the dining table and stealing three pork pies, to which she is highly allergic. As well as chasing the neighbours cat and she’s also showing a keen interest in their chickens!

The first two recipes are adapted from recipes I saw in this months Olive magazine (actually they are so adapted you probably wouldn’t recognise the recipe if you had the magazine, but that is where the inspiration came from – i guess I could call them my own recipes!) and the Pad Thai is a noodle dish we learnt in Thailand.

Linguine with green and black olives and feta cheese

Serves 2

Olive oil

Garlic 2 cloves sliced

Small onion 1 chopped

Chopped tomatoes 1 x 400g can

Tomato puree 2 tsp

Linguine 200g

Pitted green and black olives approx 12-15 halved

Feta cheese 2 tbsp cubed

Flat-leaf parsley a small bunch, chopped

Heat 2 tbs oil in a medium pan and add the onion and garlic. Cook gently for 2 minutes, without allowing them to brown. Add the tomatoes and tomato puree and season (including seasoning of 1 tsp of sugar to counteract the sourness of the tinned tomatoes). Bring to the boil and simmer for 15 minutes.

Meanwhile cook the linguine according to packet instructions. Drain well. Stir in the olives and parsley and heat through for 1 minutes. Add the feta to the sauce just before serving.

Toss the pasta with the sauce and serve.

Tip: I bought a pack of marinated olives and feta all together instead of buying them all separately

 

Roasted root vegetable and green lentil soup

Serves 4

Chantenay carrots 250g halved lengthways

 Potatos 2 peeled and cut into small chunks

Onion 1 cut into thin wedges

Olive oil

Dried chilli flakes a pinch

Ground cumin 2 tsp

Green lentils 200g

Vegetable stock 1.5 litres

Parsley a small bunch, chopped

Heat the oven to 190 degrees. Arrange all the vegetables in a single layer in a large roasting tin. Drizzle over 2 tbsp oil and spronkle over the chilli flakes, cumin and some salt and pepper. Toss the veg to coat in the oil and roast for 30-40 minutes until tender.

Meanwhile put the lentils and stock in a large saucepan and bring to the boil. Cover and simmer for 15-20 minutes, until the lentils are tender. Stir in the roasted vegetables and parsley and serve with crusty bread.

 

Pad Thai

Serves 1

70g rice noodles

2 tbsp vegetable oil

1 large egg

3 prawns, deveined and headless but with tail attached

1 1/2 tbsp fish sauce

1 1/2 tbsp sugar

1 1/2 tbsp lemon juice

1 tbsp yellow bean curd, finely diced

1 tbsp ground dried shrimp ( soak in cold water for 5 minutes, drain and pound in a pestle and mortar)

1 tbsp ground roasted peanuts

1 stem spring onion, cut into 2 cm pieces

30g bean sprouts

Soak the rice noodles in hot water until soft, approx 10 minutes. Careful they don’t get too soft.

Heat the oil in a wok until hot, then break the egg into the oil and scramble it.

Add the prawns and noodles, stir-fry for 15 seconds.

Add the fish sauce, sugar and lemon juice. Stir-fry for a further 15 seconds.

Add the dried shrimps, peanuts and beancurd. Stir-fry for another 15 seconds.

The toss in the spring onion and bean sprouts. Mix and remove from the heat.

Garnish with a lemon wedge and sprinkle with coriander leaves.